Nova Scotia Bicycle Tour - Day 14 Brier Island to Darlings Lake

Nova Scotia Tour

Day 14 Brier Island to Darlings Lake

The Poor Boy Touring Rig

I got up early and caught the 7:30 AM ferry to Freeport. My goal today was to ride the length of Digby Neck in order to be within one day's ride of Yarmouth.

I rode the length of Long Island. The rain started while I was waiting for the ferry in Tiverton. A guy pulled up in a compact pick-up truck and offered me a ride. I dislike riding in the rain. Since I was backtracking to Digby, I eagerly accepted. Like I said before, "If isn't fun, don't do it".

The man introduced himself as Ray Roubichaud. Ray, an insurance agent, was visiting various customers. He saw me riding around West Port the day before. We talked about Nova Scotia, and history. Ray was a World War II veteran who served in Belgium. He told me the story of how he traveled back to Belgium and met a German veteran who had served in one of the units he fought against. I also found out that his daughter co-owns the Brier Island Lodge where I stayed the night before.

Soon Ray dropped me off on Highway 101 near Digby. Riding Digby neck once in the rain was enough. I was so glad that I didn't have to do it a second time. It was only 10 AM and I had reached my goal for the day. Being ahead of schedule made riding in the rain a lot easier. Ray, if you ever happen to stumble upon this web site. Thanks again.

After Ray pulled away, I realized that I had left him with a souvenir. I had left my cycling gloves on his dashboard. I was trying to dry them over the defroster.

Large Stone Church at St. Bernard

I followed Highway 101 until I reached the town of Weymouth. I took a side road through the town of South Weymouth to St. Bernard. At St. Bernard, I stopped to look at the massive stone church. This church would not look out of place in a large European city. But this was a small town in Canada. It took about 10 years to build.

I stopped for lunch near Bellivieu Cove at a restaurant that Ray recommended for fish and chips. By this time, I was really cold and wet. It was a very welcome break.

I continued riding after lunch. In the town of Church Point I stopped at another church. St. Mary's is the largest wooden church in North America. The man who built it was illiterate.

A short while later, I stopped at a convenience store to warm up. After buying a cup of coffee and something to eat, I asked if I could use a restroom. The woman behind the counter eyed me suspiciously and replied coldly "not really". Maybe she figured that anyone riding in the pouring rain had to be some kind of weirdo. Whatever it was, her attitude towards me was in stark contrast from friendly welcome I received from everyone else I had encountered in Nova Scotia.

St. Mary's Church at Church Point
St. Mary's Church

I was way ahead of schedule thanks to Ray. I had began contemplating another motel room when noticed breaks in the clouds over St. Mary's Bay. I pushed on. Soon the rain ended and the sun came out. It was so nice to feel the nice warm sun on my back.

Saulnier sign
Welcome to Saulnierville

The Acadian culture was very evident along this portion of the coast. I saw Acadian flags everywhere.

The Doers and Dreamer's guide listed a campground at Darlings Lake. I got there and found no camp ground. I was standing at the location shown on my map looking around when I noticed a Nova Scotia approved campground sign in the window of one of the houses. I went up to the house and knocked on the door.

To make a long story short. The campground owners arrived from the United States, less than an hour before I did. They felt bad for me and allowed me to camp on their land for free. However they had no running water, showers or toilet facilities. They gave me a small amount of water from the house (about 1.5 liters). I pitched my tent and had my first experience with what the folks on the touring e-mail list call "guerilla camping".

While riding into the closed campground I had trouble clipping out of my clipless pedals and dumped my bike. My knee hit my cycle computer breaking the mount.

My total mileage for the day was 66.8

Continue to Day 15.